What comes to mind when you hear "Okinawa tourism"? Renting a car, heading north on Route 58, and aiming for Churaumi Aquarium. That's certainly a classic way to enjoy it. But if you want to experience "the breathing of Okinawa that no one knows yet," there's only one option.
That is, to head south by bicycle.
This time, starting from "E-Charity Naha Shop," a rental cycle shop on Kokusai Street, I'll bring you a cycling report of a day trip aiming for "Ojijima," a sacred place in southern Okinawa. I'll write about the pleasant February breeze, an exciting match I stumbled upon, and the "true face of Okinawa" that I could only discover by bicycle.
February in Okinawa is the "golden season" for cycling.
The starting point this time is "E-Charity Naha Shop" located in Naha city. From here, I will ride my road bike straight to Ojijima in Nanjo City. It is recommended to check the recommended courses and the latest information with the staff before departure! After getting various tips, it's time to start.
It's February in Okinawa. While coats are still essential in Tokyo and Osaka, the temperature in Naha that day was a surprising 22 degrees Celsius. What's more, the wind was calm. For a cyclist, conditions couldn't be more perfect.
The first thing you feel when you start riding is the difference in air density. A refreshing southern breeze, moist yet invigorating, flows through the gaps in your helmet and caresses your skin. It was at that moment that I was convinced that winter in Okinawa is the best season for cycling.
Leaving the hustle and bustle of Naha, the moment the scenery changes to "green."
The area around Kokusai Street, the center of Naha City, is still urban. There are many traffic lights and it is bustling with tourists and cars. However, as I pedaled south from there, a dramatic change in the course occurred.
As the buildings gradually grew shorter and the sky felt wider, the many traffic lights decreased one by one. Proportionately, Okinawan plants began to appear along the roadside.
The strong roots of banyan trees extending through cracks in the concrete, vibrant pink bougainvillea, and plants carrying an exotic scent. The feeling of "Ah, now I am embraced by Okinawa's rich nature." This is a luxury that can only be savored from the special seat of a bicycle at 20km/h, something that can never be experienced through the window of a rental car passing by at 60km/h.
A chance encounter: Feeling the passion of FC Ryukyu Sakura
On the way to the south, I heard lively voices coming from a certain ground. I stopped and looked in, and there was a women's soccer match being played.
The team's name is "FC Ryukyu Sakura".
It's a passionate team aiming to join the Nadeshiko League from Okinawa. The good thing about cycling is that you have unexpected encounters in such places. Although it wasn't in my original plan, I decided to get off my bike and watch for a while.
The sound of players running across the pitch and clashing fiercely. The warm applause of local families and fans cheering them on. There was a real "everyday life and challenge of Okinawa" that wasn't in any tourist guidebook.
Nearby, I saw an Okinawan cherry blossom, "Kanhi-zakura." This flower is known as the first cherry blossom to bloom in Japan. With the team name "Sakura," I felt a fated encounter.
Speechless at the blueness of the sea
As I continued further into the Nanjo City area, the sea finally opened up on my left. What I saw there was a "beautiful" blue that words cannot fully describe.
From the glittering emerald green shallows reflecting the sunlight to the cobalt blue that deepens towards the horizon. The sea of Okinawa changes its expression depending on the angle and time of day, but when cycling along the coast, that gradation flows seamlessly like a film.
"Beautiful..."
I couldn't help but murmur to myself. A bicycle trip without engine noise is the best for this spectacular course. The sound of waves, the calls of birds, and the sound of my own breathing are the only background music. This immersive experience is the real thrill of cycling in Okinawa.
Arrival at Ojijima, and an unexpected ending.
About an hour after riding my road bike from Naha, feeling a quick yet pleasant fatigue, I arrived at Ojijima, a small island with a circumference of about 1.6km.
The purpose of almost everyone who comes to this island is to visit the exquisite Okinawan gourmet spot called "Okinawa Tempura." Crossing the bridge to the island, as the scent of the tide grew stronger, I was convinced. "I'm going to devour freshly fried fish tempura and squid tempura while looking at the sea."
However, when I stood in front of the tempura shop I was looking for, a shocking sign caught my eye.
"Closed today"
For a moment, my thoughts stopped. A voice in my heart said, "No way..." This was the unexpected ending after being blessed with the best weather of 22 degrees in February, enjoying the wonderful scenery, and thinking it was a perfect course.
Even failures are "memorable" on a journey.
Normally, this might be a moment to be disappointed and think, "I cycled for an hour for nothing!" However, when I got off my bike and sat down on the coast of Ojijima, I surprisingly had no regrets.
Even though I couldn't eat tempura, along the way I saw flowers in a small alley whose name I didn't know. A local person who made eye contact with me at a traffic light and bowed. The brave figures of the FC Ryukyu Sakura players. And the Okinawan wind that I felt all over my body.
I realized that all of these were "treasures" I would have missed if I had traveled by car and gone straight to my destination.
Looking at the quiet sea of Ojijima, I can laugh and say, "I have a reason to come back again." The bicycle gives me that kind of peace of mind.
Why "bicycle" in Okinawa now?
What I strongly felt through this trip is that cycling is the ultimate form of "eco-friendly and sustainable travel."
Okinawa is currently facing challenges such as overtourism and traffic congestion. In such a situation, a bicycle trip, which moves without using gasoline or emitting exhaust gas, and with respect for small shops and scenery along the way, is a very positive option for the future of Okinawa tourism.
With a road bike, it's about an hour's ride from Naha to the southern part. You can go to a completely different world with the feeling of "just a short trip." Cycling allows you to experience the "Okinawan essence" with all five senses, something you would miss on a bus or in a car.
Conclusion: You too, to "Okinawa only seen by bicycle."
On the way back to Naha, looking at the sea that had begun to be dyed a little more by the sunset than on the way out, I was convinced. If you come to Okinawa, you should definitely ride a bicycle at least once.
Even if you can't eat the tempura you were aiming for, the small discoveries scattered along the way will enrich your trip many times over.
E-Charity Naha Shop has e-Bikes that are easy for beginners to handle, and full-fledged road bikes like the one I used this time. Check the official website for the latest rental information, and on your next trip to Okinawa, why not dedicate just one day to putting down your rental car keys?
The traffic lights disappear, the greenery increases, and the sound of the wind grows louder. Beyond that is sure to be your own "memorable Okinawa."
